Posted by admin | Posted in Herbal Remedies | Posted on 19-07-2008
Tags: dictionary, esike_roots, how to remove large roots, language, latin, remove large roots, removing large roots, roots, trees with large roots, weeds with large roots, words
i removed a large tree 6 months ago. how do i kill sprouts that are coming up from remaining underground roots?
roundup kills these sprouts but even very careful spraying still kills a large circle of grass around the sprout. roundup must get into the grass roots from the sprout roots. is there a systemic product that does not spread to grass or nearby shrubs and kills only what you apply it to?
Several times [major hurricane damage requiring multiple trees be cut down] over the last five years I have had the exact same problem you're having.
At first I tried what you describe and only resulted in temporarily killing the tree shoots and my lawn, BUT NOT the tree roots!!!!!
After a lot of experimenting, I finally won the battle and the war, BUT it was a LOT OF WORK!!!!! IF you are willing to follow the following instructions, I guarantee you will be successful.
I found that either ORTHO Brush and Stump Killer, or any other product labeled as a "brush and stump killer" will work.
The KEY TO SUCCESS is the manner in which you use the product.
First, these products come as a concentrate instructing that a small amount to be mixed with a lot of water. DO NOT follow that instruction; use the product concentrate DIRECTLY OUT OF THE CONTAINER.
The LOT OF WORK comes in the fact that you CANNOT JUST BROADCAST the killer easily [lazily] over the new tree shoots as it will kill the shoots, BUT NOT THE ROOTS from whence the shoots are originating, and WORSE, it will kill a lot of your lawn grass.
You have to physically get down on the ground, cut or break EACH SHOOT off at ground level, and then directly apply the undiluted killer to the FRESHLY exposed shoot coming up from the root. The killer is systemic, and if applied ONLY to the shoot face, will not kill your lawn grass.
At first I used a very small paintbrush [the cheap, artist's style for children], and immediately after cutting off the shoot, applied a drop of killer to the shoot stump. This is very boring and exhausting work, but is the only way to kill the shoots and roots.
Also, you need to kill the roots from the "other" end, the stump of the tree. If the stump cut surface has dried out, you need to recut it about an inch below the dried cut surface to create a brand new fresh "wound" surface. Then, IMMEDIATELY BEFORE THE CUT FACE CAN DRY AND BEGIN TO 'SCAB' OVER, fully SOAK the entire cut surface with the stump killer. IF the cut is healed over [dried out] before application of the killer, then enough of the poison will not be able to get into the system to be distributed throughout the root system.
Also, any "sucker" sprouts on the stump need to be broken off and immediately treated with the poison.
IF EACH and EVERY time that stump and root system puts out new sprouts, you IMMEDIATELY attack ALL new growth, then in a few months the stump and root system will die and you will be through with the problem forever.
But, I remind you that IF you are careless and not comrprehensive in your battle, you will lose, and the stump and root system will continue to revive itself forever!!!!!! Good luck.
Oh! I almost forgot about the best and final method of poison aplication that turned out to be the easyest, best, and most effective.
Put the poison concentrate in a clean [washed out] pump spray bottle, set the nozzle for a minimal [small] spray pattern [just barely wider than a straight stream] to apply the material to the cut ends of the shoots. It is easier, and if you are careful in application very little overspray will get onto the adjacent lawn grass,
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